- For the tutorials on this page I used white paper for visibility, but for making patterns brown construction paper is used.
- The measurements used are for the standard 12. However you will be using your measurements.
- The measurements quoted in this tutorial is just for examples only.
MAKING A SLEEVE PATTERN
This tutorial will guide you through drafting a straight sleeve pattern. From this pattern you can make most any style sleeve, except a tailored sleeve, which I will show you in another tutorial. You will require the same tools required for drafting the bodice and skirt patterns.
I used white paper for visibility, but for making patterns brown construction paper is used.
The measurements used for this pattern is for the average size 12. However you will be using your measurements. The measurements quoted in this tutorial is just for examples only.
UA – Under Arm
TA – Top Arm
Average size 12 measurements for sleeve:
Top Arm 11 1/2″ + 2″ ease = 13 1/2″
Length of Sleeve 22 1/2″
Length of UA seam to elbow 7 1/2″
Length of UA seam, Elbow to Wrist 9 1/2″
Total UA Length 17″ (from armpit to last crease on wrist)
Cut paper the length of your arm measurement by the circumference of your top arm measurement + 2″ for ease.
FOR SIZE 12:
- Cut a rectangle of paper 25″ X 15″.
- Fold paper in half lengthwise
- unfold and draw a line on this fold (this is called the top line
Fold paper in half again then make another fold then draw on these two side folds.
The line on the right is the front fold line.
The line on the left is the back fold line.
The right edge of the paper is the front underarm line.
The left edge of the paper is the back underarm line.
Measure down 7″ from top edge of paper and draw a line across.
This is the top arm line.
From top arm line measure down 7 1/2″ draw a line across for the elbow line (this is standard for all sizes)
From elbow line measure down 9 1/2″ draw a line across for the wrist line
(this is standard for all sizes)
Take 1/2 of your TA + 2″ for ease ie:(1/2 of 13 1/2 = 6 3/4″) and mark this measurement to either side of the top line and mark the “U”.
Either side of the top line measures half of 6 3/4 = 3 3/8″
From top arm line measure up 5 1/2″ for cap height
(this is standard for all sizes). Mark this point “T”
On the front fold line measure up from the top arm line 1/2 of cap height + 1/4 ” ie: (1/2 of 5/12 = 2 3/4″ + 1/4″ = 3″ – Mark this point F.
On the back fold line measure up from the top arm line 1/2 of cap height + 1/2″
ie: (1/2 of 5 1/2 – 2 3/4″ + 1/2″ = 3 1/4″ for point B.
Now you are ready to connect the dots to form the shape of the armhole.
Join point “U” to “F” to “T” to “B” to “U” as seen in diagram.
This is the guide line.
To curve the sleeve two guide lines are needed.
- 1: Measure from point “U” on back UA line, along the top line 3/4″
Mark this “G”. Join this to point “B”.
- 2: For the second guide line: Measure from point U on front UA line, along the top arm line 1 3/4″
Mark this E. Join this to point “F”.
Follow the points and use your French Rule to shape the curve of the sleeves.
To shape the wrist:
Along the wrist measure up 1/2″ on the front fold line.
Measure down 1/2″ on the back fold line. See diagram.
Use french curve to make a smooth curve line.
When the draft is completed use tracing wheel and trace on to bristol board, indicating the UA lines, top line, elbow line, writs line and measurements.
We will use this block/sloper in subsequent tutorial to create different sleeve designs.