In this tutorial we’ll make a basic skirt pattern. From this pattern you will be able to make a variety of styles which I will show in subsequent tutorials.
You will need:
A roll of brown paper, ruler, tracing wheel, tape measure, a yard stick. scissors, french rule, eraser, pencil.
(For the purpose of this tutorial I used white paper, for writing visibility)
- 1: Measure paper half of hip measurement by length of skirt, determine the length of skirt plus 2″ for hem”.
- In this tutorial the hip is 40″, waist is 30″ and skirt length is 26″
- The width of the paper should be 20″ + 2″ for ease = 22″
- Length of the paper should be 26″ + 2″ for hem = 28″
- (Paper should measure 22″ x 26″
(These measurements are examples for the sake of the tutorial, you will be using your own measurements)
- The top line of the paper is the waist line
- 2: From the top line of paper measure 4″ down from the waist, this is the upper hip area. Draw a horizontal line across
- 3: From the top line of paper measure 9″ down from the waist, this is the lower or real hip area. Draw a horizontal line across.
- 4: Measure down the length of skirt draw a horizontal line across the natural skirt length, the extra 2″ is the hem.
- 5: Fold paper in half and draw line down the center. The left line is the center back (CB) of skirt the right line is center front ((CF) refer to diagram.
You now have skirt back and skirt front. 1/4 of hip skirt front = 11″ – 1/4 of hip skirt back = 11″
Now you have to shape the waist and place the darts.
- On the waist line from CB measure 4″, mark with pencil, measure 11/4″ this is the width of the back dart, measure 5″ down this is the length of the back dart.
- On either side of the 5″ center line measure 1/2 of 11/4″ ( 11/4 divide by 2 = 5/8 on either side) and draw a line to meet at the center forming a triangle.
- This is the back skirt dart as seen in diagram.
- On the waist line from CF measure 4″, mark with pencil, measure 1″ for width of front dart, measure down 4″ this is the length of the front dart.
- On either side of the 4″ center line measure 1/2 of 1″ (1″ divide by 2 = 1/2″ on either side) and draw a line to meet at the center forming a triangle.
- This is the front skirt dart as seen in diagram.
Before shaping the waist verify the measurements are correct.
Bear in mind that patterns are quarter the circumference of your measurements and are placed on fold line for cutting;
ie: if your waist measurement is 30″ the finished pattern should be:
- 1/4 of the waist measurement = 7 1/2.
- Skirt Front: 7 1/2 + 1″dart = 81/2″
- Skirt Back 7 1/2 + 1 1/4″ = 8 3/4″
- For a 40″hip, 1/4 of hip measurement = 10″
To shape waist. raise 1/8″ at the sides and drop 1/4″ at the center front, (CF) and center back (CB) and shape with French Curve. (See diagram below)
Always add 3/4″ seam allowance.
The final step is to transfer the draft on to the bristol or hard board, to do this you will need a tracing wheel and hard or bristol board, purchased at any craft store.
Place pattern on bristol or hard board and trace with tracing wheel, included all the markings including darts.
Outline with pencil include:
Upper hip line, lower hip line, and all measurements and markings.
This will be your permanent skirt block, from this basic block you can create just about any style skirt.
Always allow 3/4″ seam allowance