Adjusting an armhole to fit

INSERTING A GUSSET IN A SHIRT
I had a long sleeve shirt that was too tight across the chest , arm and midriff  but I wanted to keep it because I love the tartan plaid pattern.
If you have a shirt that is too small you can insert a gusset at the sides to make it fit.
  • First I cut the sleeve.  I needed the extra fabric to make the gusset to insert at  the side of the shirt so  it will fit

 

  • Then I cut 2 cone shapes from the underside of the two cut sleeves,

(see the diagram)

  • However if you want the gusset to extend to the hem of the shirt the gusset will the same width to the hem of the shirt. (ie: it will be a rectangle instead of cone shape)

 

 

  • Open both side of the shirt from end of sleeve to the point you want the gusset to end.

(if necessary open all the way down the side of the shirt).

 

 

  • Measure around arm and cut another piece of fabric to add width to sleeve to widen.
  • Join the under sleeve piece to side gusset as seen in diagram.
  • (If there is enough fabric you can cut the under sleeve and side gusset as one piece without joining underarm)
  • Base to secure in place before stitching.
  • Sew from end of sleeve to desired point you want the gusset to end.
  • For this alteration the widest part of the gusset and the under sleeve is 4″ and tapered to a cone shape since I did not want the gusset to the hem of the shirt.
  • This measurement will vary depending on your personal measurements and how loose you want the shirt to fit.
  • The gusset is inserted from end of sleeve to the point where you would to have the increase or to the hem of the shirt.
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